Hatteras Island

Started today early with a 7:35 AM departure. First wonderful part of the day was beening waked by a f---ing Sport Fisher going about 30 mph heading for the Oregon Inlet. No slow pass, nothing!!! Our morning coffee went everywhere. Luckily Toby was up on the pilot house seat and not out on the bow. Bonnie's dress was ruined and paper charts doused. The most dangerous part of cruising is the 'other' boaters, with Sport Fishers the worst. Bonnie believes that they seem to be making up for thier anatomical short-comings. I agree!

While our original float plan was to make Oracoke Island, the weather was worsening with 19 knot winds and 3 -5 ft. seas. Decided to stay overnight at Hatteras. Good thing, as this thunderstorm came upon the marina shortly after we docked and cleaned up the boat.

Nice litlle marina, with quaint shops and next to the car ferry station.

A day at the Beach!

Rented a car and went to Pea Island beach. Toby
loved playing in the water. Dinner later at Awful Authers in Kitty Hawk; great food and drink.

The rental car was great, as it gave us the opportinity to see town and run on the beach.

Across the Albemarle Sound to Manteo

A smooth crossing of the Albemarle Sound, albeit crab pots every 100' in the middle of the channel. Made Manteo Waterfront Marina at 12:30PM.

After two nights at 'free docks' without power, it is good to have air conditioning again. Weather has been hot and humid; a typical North Carolina July.

Plan on staying two nights, rent a car and go to the beach.

Dismal Swamp to Elizabeth City

Planned to make the 11:30 AM lock to depart the Dismal Swamp, but due to low water levels in the canal, lock times had been reduced. Waited at the visitors center several more hours. Made the afternoon lock at 3:00. I'm not good at waiting!









Toby has become quite the 'boat dog', going outside unassisted (not approved) and enjoying nature and breeze while underway.

Docked at the 'free docks' in Elizabeth City by 6:05 PM, tight fit; but no problem.

Dismal Swamp

We have been looking forward to the return trip via the Dismal Swamp Canal. Connecting the Chesapeake Bay in Virginia via the Elizabeth River and the Albemarle Sound in North Carolina via the Pasquotank River , this is the oldest continually operating man-made canal in the United States. Digging began in 1793 and progressed slowly since the canal had to be dug completely by hand. Most of the labor was done by slaves hired from nearby land owners. It took over12 years of back-breaking construction under highly unfavorable conditions to complete the 22-mile long waterway.

Made the 'Southbound' lock at 2:30, but had to wait until a 3:00 opening; no problem we're cruising.

Stayed at the free docks and the Dismal Swamp Visitors Center, storms are expected overnight.

Heading Southbound - Rough Passage

Dylan returned home today from Williamsburg Station via Amtrak. He was excited to travel via train for the first time on a longer passage. We were excited to be alone. We love our children, but know how to enjoy each other without them.

At 12:30 we cast off to return to the Norfolk area, with a planned destination of Hampton Roads. With steady winds from the Southeast, the Cheaspeake Bay began building as we moved further south.

By the time we reached Bluewater Marina in Hampton Roads, even Toby had enough of 'bluewater' cruising!

But, after a good boat washing and dinner; we all went for a dinghy ride up the Hampton River. On Laughing Turtle we carry a 9' dinghy with 2hp motor on our stern.

Kid Day – Busch Gardens

Today was break from the water. We all went to Busch Gardens, including Toby (kennel at the park). Personally, Bonnie and I have out grown roller coasters by at least a couple of years. But, it was good to get off the boat a walk and we did do a few roller coasters. For Griffen, the newest and scariest, Dylan was on his own.
Upon on return, we were pleased to find that a concert was on the schedule for the marina. From the vantage point of Laughing Turtle, we had the best seats in the house.

Into the Chesapeake & Yorktown

Our passage to Yorktown began with passing ‘battleship row’ in Norfolk. An amazing display of our naval supremacy and defense budget. With tight security scrutiny, we passed many warships, including two aircraft carriers (including the Harry S. Truman) and two submarines. A watchful eye is necessary as there is always much movement in the harbor with Navy ships, tugs (the commercial kind) and various merchant vessels.

Arrived at Riverwalk Landing, Yorktown, VA at 5:15 PM. A very nice public marina next to historic Yorktown. Shopping, restaurants and local attraction shuttles are all available dockside. All I want is a cold beer!

Stormy Wednesday

Today was a planned touring day. With Toby guarding the boat, we all went to Norfolk to tour the Naval Museum, Nauticus and the battleship Wisconsin. On our return, on the paddlewheel ferry, a violent storm hit the area. Winds were in excess of 60 mph with heavy rains and rough seas. It was all the ferryboat captain could do to keep the boat into the wind and docked in Portsmouth. I am relieved that we were not out in that situation.

Here is Dylan comparing his ‘guns’ to those of the battleship Wisconsin. Well … at least he is not texting!

Norfolk – Land of the BIG Ships

In comparison to yesterday, this day is short. It lengthen somewhat by the transiting of 14 bridges and one lock. Some of the bridges require openings and only open on a predetermined schedule; miss timing on one and it can greatly lengthen your whole day. Our total wait time for openings was only about an hour total.

I am often asked, how do you know where you are and where you are going? At the helm of Laughing Turtle we have a number of systems to know exactly where we are and where we are going. First, is the paper marine chart. This is a book of maps of the entire coastal area that we will be transiting. These are most helpful in planning passage for the day and today for knowing the bridge locations, names and clearances. These charts are used in conjunction with ruler and the magnetic compass.

Secondly, we have a Furuno chart plotter (to the left above) that interfaces with a electronic version of the marine charts, GPS, depth sounder, auto pilot system and radar overlay. The LCD display provides us with our exact location, direction (heading) and locations of marine buoys and other navigational markers. Radar overlay provides up to a 48 mile range of land, navigational markers and other vessels. A must have when visibility is limited.

As a third backup option, I have a laptop computer connected to a USB Garmin GPS. I have a set of Fugawi Software marine charts. My GPS shows my exact location on the correct chart. This is not only a backup, but also has further information regarding buoy and marker numbers and local tide charts.

Arrived at Tidewater Marina in Portsmouth, VA at 4:30 PM. The Portsmouth, Norfolk, Hampton Roads, Newport News area is by far the busiest harbor I have seen from this perspective.

Long Day on the Water

As planned day two of our trip was to be a long journey. Not in nautical miles, but in time; as Laughing Turtle is a trawler not a speed boat. Due to Cristobal, we are now a day behind schedule; but schedules mean less when you are on vacation.

We departed the dock at 6:35 AM with plans to reach Coinjock, NC by late afternoon. Passed through the Alligator River, a very desolate place and there were no alligators (at least that we saw). Toby started the day with a nap on the bow and Dylan found a spot topside for his life of text messaging. But, like the alligators sell phone service was non-existent.


Bonnie & I kept each other company, as is preferred, and pointed out the few sites of nature along the way. Laughing Turtle is running as expected at 8 Knots and with a fuel burn of 2.5 gallons per hour. She is our faithful ship and reliable in every way.

Arrived at Coinjock Marina a little before 4:00 PM. Toby held his bladder the whole time and was very happy to place his paws on land. Have dinner plans for steak at the ‘famous’ Coinjock Restaurant this evening!

Waiting Out The Storm

With tropical storm Christobal now upon us, we did the sencible thing and stayed at our safe harbor at Dowry Creek Marina in Belhaven, NC. Rocked & Rolled all night and most of today, with intermittent rain squalls.

All in all a good day to just curl-up with a book and begin to relax. We are still adjusting to vacation mode, but should have it down within the next day or so. (Toby is always in vacation mode and doesn't understand our problem.)

As I write this it is 8:30PM and the storm has past and the water is dead calm, with a good marine forecast for tomorrow. This is good news as we plan to cross the Albemarle Sound tomorrow afternoon. The Albemarle has a rough reputation so a forecast of light winds bodes well for our crossing.

Off We Go - Into a Tropical Storm

Sea Fever

I must go down to the seas again,
to the lonely sea and the sky,
And all I ask is a tall ship
and a star to steer her by,
And the wheel's kick and the wind's song
and the white sail's shaking,
And a grey mist on the sea's face
and a grey dawn breaking.
I must go down to the seas again,
for the call of the running tide
Is a wild call and a clear call
that may not be denied;
And all I ask is a windy day
with the white clouds flying,
And the flung spray and the blown spume,
and the sea-gulls crying.
I must go down to the seas again
to the vagrant gypsy life,
To the gull's way and the whale's way
where the wind's like a whetted knife;
And all I ask is a merry yarn
from a laughing fellow rover,
And quiet sleep and a sweet dream
when the long trick's over.
-- John Masefield

Well .... our first day at least started off with great anticipation and good weather. But, as weather forecasts can be unpredictable this time of year, we closed the day with a tropical storm upon us. We made our planned destination of Dowry Creek Marina in Belhaven, NC; just in time to tie up for the storm. Have had a few rain squalls and even a rainbow. Should be an interesting night. Update on Cristobal tomorrow.

Ready to Cast-Off

Well ... it has been a long time since I have maintained this blog. But then, not much happens when your not truly cruising. Weekends and even long weekends cannot replace untying from your home port for longer periods.

Laughing Turtle was hauled out this past fall for new bottom paint and detailing. All systems have been checked, fluids and filters changed; she's eager to go. In the process, I've become very familiar with our little ship's 'holy place' (engine room).

Laughing Turtle is ready to go and so are we. So, in two days we'll cast-off for a trip from North Carolina up to the Chesapeake Bay. No schedule, No Shoes, No Problem.