Stormy Wednesday

Today was a planned touring day. With Toby guarding the boat, we all went to Norfolk to tour the Naval Museum, Nauticus and the battleship Wisconsin. On our return, on the paddlewheel ferry, a violent storm hit the area. Winds were in excess of 60 mph with heavy rains and rough seas. It was all the ferryboat captain could do to keep the boat into the wind and docked in Portsmouth. I am relieved that we were not out in that situation.

Here is Dylan comparing his ‘guns’ to those of the battleship Wisconsin. Well … at least he is not texting!

Norfolk – Land of the BIG Ships

In comparison to yesterday, this day is short. It lengthen somewhat by the transiting of 14 bridges and one lock. Some of the bridges require openings and only open on a predetermined schedule; miss timing on one and it can greatly lengthen your whole day. Our total wait time for openings was only about an hour total.

I am often asked, how do you know where you are and where you are going? At the helm of Laughing Turtle we have a number of systems to know exactly where we are and where we are going. First, is the paper marine chart. This is a book of maps of the entire coastal area that we will be transiting. These are most helpful in planning passage for the day and today for knowing the bridge locations, names and clearances. These charts are used in conjunction with ruler and the magnetic compass.

Secondly, we have a Furuno chart plotter (to the left above) that interfaces with a electronic version of the marine charts, GPS, depth sounder, auto pilot system and radar overlay. The LCD display provides us with our exact location, direction (heading) and locations of marine buoys and other navigational markers. Radar overlay provides up to a 48 mile range of land, navigational markers and other vessels. A must have when visibility is limited.

As a third backup option, I have a laptop computer connected to a USB Garmin GPS. I have a set of Fugawi Software marine charts. My GPS shows my exact location on the correct chart. This is not only a backup, but also has further information regarding buoy and marker numbers and local tide charts.

Arrived at Tidewater Marina in Portsmouth, VA at 4:30 PM. The Portsmouth, Norfolk, Hampton Roads, Newport News area is by far the busiest harbor I have seen from this perspective.

Long Day on the Water

As planned day two of our trip was to be a long journey. Not in nautical miles, but in time; as Laughing Turtle is a trawler not a speed boat. Due to Cristobal, we are now a day behind schedule; but schedules mean less when you are on vacation.

We departed the dock at 6:35 AM with plans to reach Coinjock, NC by late afternoon. Passed through the Alligator River, a very desolate place and there were no alligators (at least that we saw). Toby started the day with a nap on the bow and Dylan found a spot topside for his life of text messaging. But, like the alligators sell phone service was non-existent.


Bonnie & I kept each other company, as is preferred, and pointed out the few sites of nature along the way. Laughing Turtle is running as expected at 8 Knots and with a fuel burn of 2.5 gallons per hour. She is our faithful ship and reliable in every way.

Arrived at Coinjock Marina a little before 4:00 PM. Toby held his bladder the whole time and was very happy to place his paws on land. Have dinner plans for steak at the ‘famous’ Coinjock Restaurant this evening!

Waiting Out The Storm

With tropical storm Christobal now upon us, we did the sencible thing and stayed at our safe harbor at Dowry Creek Marina in Belhaven, NC. Rocked & Rolled all night and most of today, with intermittent rain squalls.

All in all a good day to just curl-up with a book and begin to relax. We are still adjusting to vacation mode, but should have it down within the next day or so. (Toby is always in vacation mode and doesn't understand our problem.)

As I write this it is 8:30PM and the storm has past and the water is dead calm, with a good marine forecast for tomorrow. This is good news as we plan to cross the Albemarle Sound tomorrow afternoon. The Albemarle has a rough reputation so a forecast of light winds bodes well for our crossing.

Off We Go - Into a Tropical Storm

Sea Fever

I must go down to the seas again,
to the lonely sea and the sky,
And all I ask is a tall ship
and a star to steer her by,
And the wheel's kick and the wind's song
and the white sail's shaking,
And a grey mist on the sea's face
and a grey dawn breaking.
I must go down to the seas again,
for the call of the running tide
Is a wild call and a clear call
that may not be denied;
And all I ask is a windy day
with the white clouds flying,
And the flung spray and the blown spume,
and the sea-gulls crying.
I must go down to the seas again
to the vagrant gypsy life,
To the gull's way and the whale's way
where the wind's like a whetted knife;
And all I ask is a merry yarn
from a laughing fellow rover,
And quiet sleep and a sweet dream
when the long trick's over.
-- John Masefield

Well .... our first day at least started off with great anticipation and good weather. But, as weather forecasts can be unpredictable this time of year, we closed the day with a tropical storm upon us. We made our planned destination of Dowry Creek Marina in Belhaven, NC; just in time to tie up for the storm. Have had a few rain squalls and even a rainbow. Should be an interesting night. Update on Cristobal tomorrow.

Ready to Cast-Off

Well ... it has been a long time since I have maintained this blog. But then, not much happens when your not truly cruising. Weekends and even long weekends cannot replace untying from your home port for longer periods.

Laughing Turtle was hauled out this past fall for new bottom paint and detailing. All systems have been checked, fluids and filters changed; she's eager to go. In the process, I've become very familiar with our little ship's 'holy place' (engine room).

Laughing Turtle is ready to go and so are we. So, in two days we'll cast-off for a trip from North Carolina up to the Chesapeake Bay. No schedule, No Shoes, No Problem.

Cape Lookout / Summer Vacation

Finally, a week long vacation of sun, fun and chasing booty.

Dylan (my 15 year old), Bonnie & I spent a week exploring the Crystal Coast area of the North Carolina Outer Banks.

Our first destination was Cape Lookout, where our thoughts of buying a trawler all began during our 2006 summer vacation. On our way we thought we would stop for lunch on-the-hook at Shakelford Banks, but ended up soft grounding on a sand bar in an area that I had been many times over the years. Shows that the outer banks are in constant change.

Later, safely anchored in the bight of Cape Lookout, we were able to go ashore and walk to ocean side and be the only people on the beach. There are very few places in the world that you can make that claim; which is the reason that Cape Lookout is one of my favorite places of all time.

On our second night of anchorage, we were awakened by a strong thunderstorm and our anchor alarm. Fortunately, our anchor held fast, but the weather forecast was not good for the next several days. Early the next day we headed out to Beaufort prior the seas getting rough. A few weeks earlier we made passge from Cape Lookout to the Beaufort Inlet in 8' seas and did not desire to repeat the experience. Fortunately, we were only greeted by 4' to 5' seas as we took leave of the cape.

Docked at the Beaufort Docks we enjoyed the comforts of electric and air conditioning; although we do have a generator; I prefer not to run at night just for a/c when we have an ocean breeze.

Upon depature from Beaufort, we cruised Taylor's Creek and were greeted by the banks ponies. These are the ancestors of ponies shipwreaked on the beaches of Cape Lookout, Hatteras and Shakelford Banks and still survive today (with some help from local horse lovers).

After stops in Swanboro, Morehead City and New Bern; we all agreed it was a great week. In addition, we were able to experience both clear skies and rough weather; sometimes all in the same day. In the end we had sun, haze, thunderstorms, low visibilty and high winds at some time during our travels. But, always felt safe in our sturdy Nordic Tug, Laughing Turtle.